All good things must come to an end. Today was the last day of vacation, and not very interesting or exciting at all. But at least it started nice, with breakfast in bed. It wasn’t fancy, but my Airbnb reservation included a simple breakfast. I chose the breakfast croissant sandwich with fruit. And coffee from a Keurig. My room at this Airbnb had two single beds, and therefore no room for a chair or a table or desk. So I ate sitting cross-legged on the bed in my jammies.
And then I drove several hours from the San Luis Valley to Denver. I was really sick of driving by the time I got home, and my back hurt. It took me two trips to unpack everything, and after getting the mail I decided the car needed a bath. So I took it to the automatic car wash.
It’s nice to be home again, though I wish my vacation was longer. Not much has changed while I was gone. There’s a new homeless camp across the street, and my terrarium’s tiny succulent plant has sprouted some new leaves. Other than that, it’s the same old condo in the same old place.
Oh, I gained 8.2 pounds on my trip. I’m the heaviest I’ve been since June of 2020. I guess it’s time to go back on my diet. No more sopaipillas for a while.
Thanks for reading my daily travel journal about my New Mexico rock art road trip. In case you missed an episode, here are links to all of them.
Day 1 – driving to New Mexico, eating my first stuffy
Day 2 – Pecos National Historic Park, driving to Albuquerque, shrimp and grits
Day 3 – Petroglyph National Monument, Maxwell Museum of Anthropology
Day 4 – Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, La Cieneguilla Petroglyphs, Santa Fe
No hiking, no rock art. Today I packed up my stuff from the casita where I was staying near Santa Fe and headed north. I did get to spend a couple hours relaxing before hitting the road, and did some reading.
My first planned stop was Orlando’s New Mexican Cafe in Taos. You see, there’s one New Mexican dish that I realized I never had on this trip, and today would be my last day in New Mexico, and therefore my last chance. That dish? Frito pie. So I did some research to find a well-rated restaurant in Taos that also had Frito pie on the menu, and Orlando’s was my choice.
The drive from Santa Fe to Taos was longer than I remembered from last time I did it, but I arrived around 12:30 or so, and then had to wait for another 20 minutes to get a table. Orlando’s is popular. Anyhow, here’s a picture of my lunch. I ordered it with beef and red chile, neither of which you can see under the lettuce and Fritos. But it was tasty.
My ultimate destination for the day was an Airbnb near San Luis, Colorado, and I wanted to arrive after 3pm, but before 5pm. So I stopped a couple places on the way since I had time. One stop was to see Old San Acacio which is a tiny village that’s home to Colorado’s oldest standing church, the San Acacio Mission Church, built in 1856. The church definitely wasn’t built to last 150 years, so they’ve had to do a ton of remodeling and stabilization since shortly after it was built. I found this awesome article that talks about the history of the church, but I’m not gonna repeat any of that here. Click the link if you are as curious about history as I am.
Behind the church is an old graveyard. Also, much appreciated by yours truly, there’s an outhouse. Beyond the graveyard is a cattle pasture, with, ironically, a dead cow. Church, dead people, dead cow.
After walking around the church grounds and taking these photos, I drove to and checked into my Airbnb, took a nap, and then drove back to San Luis for some amazingly good Thai food.
That pretty much sums up my day. Tomorrow I drive the rest of the way home. I expect it’s going to be pretty uneventful. No hikes, no rock art, no New Mexican food.
After a restful Sunday, today I hit it hard. I was up and dressed and packed for the day and out the door by 7:40. Destination: Mesa Prieta. That’s the home of the Wells Petroglyph Preserve (now owned by the Archeological Conservancy) and the Mesa Prieta Petroglyph Project, which is located on private land in a semi-secret location between Santa Fe and Taos.
In some ways, this destination was the main reason that I planned this whole rock art road trip. I had originally bought tickets for two on a guided tour for spring 2020. Then the pandemic hit and they canceled all tours. Then they made an offer that instead of two spots on a public tour I could use those tickets for a private tour. When they finally started offering tours again in the fall of 2021, I leapt at the chance. Today Shorty and I got that private tour. We pulled into the parking area about 8:50, and the tour guide arrived shortly after, then we got underway.
As you can imagine, it’s pretty special to get a private tour. I could take as much or as little time as I wanted at each stop on the hike. When I wanted to stop for water, we stopped for water!
Like the rock art hikes at the Petroglyph National Monument and La Cieneguilla, the rock art here is all petroglyphs carved into volcanic rocks that have crumbled and fallen off a east-facing cliff above a river. There’s a pattern here!
Some of the figures here are from the archaic period (5500 BCE to 500 CE, footprints, handprints), some are classic period Ancestral Puebloan (14th century to 17th century, flute players, religious figures), and some are historic period (starting in 1598 when Oñate and Spanish settlers arrived to colonize the region, horses, crosses).
Enough introduction, let’s look at the photo gallery…
No, Mr. T is not the photo gallery. Click the photos below:
I bought a booklet from the tour guide called Mesa Prieta Rock Art on the Wells Petroglyph Preserve. From reading that after I got back to my Airbnb, I learned two things that made the morning’s rock art excursion even more significant than I realized at the time:
“Mesa Prieta is the largest known site of petroglyphs representing Spanish history and culture in the United States”, and
Mesa Prieta “has more rock art images than any other site in the state” with current estimates in the neighborhood of 80,000 (roughly 4x as many as Petroglyph National Monument near Albuquerque, where I hiked on Day 3)
Part 2, Tsankawi
After I said goodbye to my tour guide, my next priority was lunch. She recommended a place in Española called La Cocina, so that’s where I went.
New Mexican food choice of the day: lamb enchiladas with green chile
It was delicious. And of course I had to eat the sopaipillas they brought with the meal. Later they gave me extra energy to climb rocks and ladders on my afternoon hike.
After lunch I drove toward Los Alamos. On the way, the road passes through a half dozen Pueblo Indian reservations. It was weird to see signs all along the way that read…
PUEBLO CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE
They take their COVID-19 precautions pretty seriously in these parts, and most of the pueblos don’t want visitors right now. One or two of the places I considered hiking on this trip are closed currently because of that.
Near Los Alamos, New Mexico is Bandelier National Monument. The main district of the monument is a canyon with a bunch of cave dwellings (called cavates) carved into the soft volcanic rock that exists in this area. Separate from that, though, is the Tsankawi section of the national monument. It’s got a little bit of everything.
There are some of the same sort of cave dwellings, ruins of a pueblo on top of the mesa, some rock art, and a lot of trails that have been walked on by so many people over the past 600 years that there are now deep grooves worn into the soft rock.
The hike includes a couple of ladders that freak some people out. Walking on the side of a cliff also freaks some people out, especially parents with children. And so this section of the monument gets a lot less tourist traffic than the main section. And that’s why I went.
The whole loop trail is only 1.6 miles, though a fair amount of it is up and down, so it feels like more. But I knew it wouldn’t take me long, so I didn’t bother taking any water or my backpack. I even left Shorty in the car, because I wanted to move fast and he’d just slow me down.
Here’s what I saw:
Once I got back to the car, I headed down valley toward my next stop, the Sonic in Santa Fe for a large diet limeade. All the hot dry walking made me appreciate it so much!
Today is was time to take a vacation from my vacation. The first four days of my road trip, I got going early because I had something planned for morning – hiking before the heat of the day, early admission to the museum, or a day full of driving. But Sunday I decided to take it easy.
I slept in a bit, made a pot of New Mexico piñon nut coffee, ate some leftovers for breakfast, and just chilled out most of the day. I did laundry, picked some pears from the pear tree on the property of my AirBnB, read my book, and did a little bit of planning for the next couple days.
Because of all this, I don’t have many photos to show you. The only New Mexican food I ate was the leftover stacked enchiladas, beans, and pozole from lunch yesterday. Oh, and the leftover shrimp and green chile pizza from supper.
I did meet my AirBnB host in person. She came by in the morning. I told her I appreciated all the coffee options she has for guests. She’s got a Mr. Coffee type drip machine, plus a French press, and three different kinds of coffee. I mentioned to her that the can of piñon coffee was nearly out, and she said to just throw the rest out. When I came back from a car trip into town, there was a fresh bag of coffee on the doorstep. What a nice touch!
Hang on, folks, because this one’s gonna be a long one…
Part 1, Indian Pueblo Cultural Center
Saturday was another day that started kinda early. I had purchased a timed admission ticket in advance to get into the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center at 9am, and the adjacent restaurant opened for breakfast at 8am. So I had to get up and pack everything up and check out of the hotel in time to get to breakfast in time. Fortunately, the hotel I was in was only about 1/4 mile from the cultural center.
I’m gonna talk about food for a while now, before I talk about the cultural center museum itself. If you’ve been reading this blog series, you know I’ve been trying to get some New Mexican food every day. Well, this day was special, because the restaurant that’s adjacent to the cultural center is run by a world-renowned native chef Ray Naranjo. If you’ve never heard of him, google his name and you’ll find dozens of articles and interviews, he’s like the pueblo Jacques Pépin.
The menu at Indian Pueblo Kitchen (formerly called Pueblo Harvest) uses as many native and local ingredients as possible, and when I read it over while planning this road trip, I was in hog heaven. My original plan for the day was to have breakfast there, then walk through the museum for a couple hours, then watch the monthly dance performance in the courtyard from 11 to 12, and then go back to the Indian Pueblo Kitchen for lunch. It didn’t work out that way, but that’s how excited I was for this place.
Anyhow, on arriving, the waitress immediately asked if I wanted some coffee, and I was hesitant, because I wanted to know whether they had espresso drinks. It turns out they do, so I ordered a small cappuccino. On the menu it was labeled a “tall” size, not “small”. I thought, “Hmm, they use the Starbucks measurement system for drinks, but I guess that’s because everyone who’s here is a tourist who probably also drinks Starbucks.” Still, I was surprised, when the cappuccino that arrived was actually in a Starbucks cup. Maybe I shouldn’t have been. I guess they have a mini-Starbucks hidden away in the kitchen somewhere.
For my breakfast I chose “superfoods griddle cakes with sausage”. The “superfoods” part was listed as “blue corn, quinoa, amaranth, currants, piñon, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, triple berries, and pure maple syrup.” But I’d swear mine had some chocolate chips in it, too. Regardless, it was three thick pancakes, very hearty considering the seeds and nuts inside. The sausage was two pieces of sausage made from ground turkey and – of course! – diced green chiles, plus breakfast sausage spices. It was all very filling.
Anyhow, a few minutes after 9am, I did get my electronic ticket scanned and went into the museum. I’d been here years and years before, but didn’t remember any of it.
The main permanent exhibit had a ton of information about the pre-history and history of New Mexico’s pueblos. Not surprising, they’ve done a good job of telling balanced stories of conflicts with Europeans and other Native American groups. I especially liked that it wasn’t all just history, but also had a lot of focus on art.
After finishing the main exhibit, I viewed a couple of temporary exhibits, one of which was called “HERitage: Pueblo Women Paving Cultural Pathways.” It had sections on about 20 different women from various pueblos from the past century or so. These women lived a variety of lifestyles as artists, scientists, doctors, politicians, and storytellers. Since so much Native history we see in museums is centered around men, it’s great to see an exhibit about modern Native women.
The other temporary exhibit was called “Radon Daughter” and it was all art from an artist named DeHaven Solimon Chaffins. I loved the colors and style of her art. Her subjects have a lot to do with growing up next to a uranium mine.
By then it was time for the dancing to start. When I first read about the dance performances, I thought it was performances from four different tribes, but I was wrong. It was actually performances by one group called simply “Pueblo Dance Group” whose members come from several different pueblos (Acoma, Laguna, Jemez, Ohkay Owingeh, Zuni, Santa Clara, and Hopi, according to the brochure). The leader of the group said normally they have more dancers, with a total count of around 20 members. But due to a variety of events, there were only four dancers and about six guys drumming and singing today. The standout was the dancer playing the role of “hunter” who was a boy who just turned 9 this week. That kid was good!
Anyhow, at noon when the dancing was finished, my original plan was to go back to the restaurant and have some more pueblo-inspired food. But there was a 35 minute wait for a table, and frankly I was still full from the huge breakfast I had. So instead of waiting, I said goodbye to Albuquerque and headed north. But not before picking up a pueblo cookie and peach pie from the baked goods counter.
Part 2, La Cieneguilla Petroglyphs
After an hour or so on the road, plus a stop for lunch, I arrived at the parking area and trail head for La Cieneguilla Petroglyphs.
OK, hold on a second. I didn’t talk about lunch, but maybe I should have, because it was yet another New Mexican food experience.I found a place in the northern reaches of the Albuquerque sprawl that good good marks – at least on Yelp – for and ordered the chicken enchilada plate. The waitress asked if I wanted red or green, and I said “Christmas!” And she said the meal came with two sides, so I ordered beans and – of course – posole!
By the way, I still don’t know what the proper spelling of the word is. Everywhere I’ve seen in New Mexico, they spell it posole. But in Mexico it’s spelled pozole. In Denver, it’s spelled both ways, roughly 50/50.
Anyhow, the waitress delivered my plate of food, warned me that it was hot, and then she looked at it really weird, like she was afraid she brought out the wrong thing. “I’ve never seen them make it like that before,” she told me. “I can take it back if you want.”
I think she assumed I was a regular who was going to get upset, but couldn’t be farther from the truth. The way the kitchen prepared the dish, instead of three rolled enchiladas, they made them stacked style. And then they smothered the stack in queso sauce, with red chile on one side and green chile on the other. It was delicious, but way too much food. I had to get a box to take about half of it with me for leftovers.
Now back to rock art. This particular petroglyph hike was a bit unusual in a few ways. First, it’s on BLM land, which means it’s way more wild west than most. There’s a trail head, but the whole area is a network of social trails, without any indication of anything being “official”. That’s why descriptions of the train range from 0.8 miles to 2.0 miles in length. I pulled up the trail that’s in AllTrails, and planned to do the loop it recommended, but once I got there I realized it was very stupid. If you follow the trail as defined in the AllTrails map, you’d spend half your time on top of the mesa where you can’t see any of the rock art, and the other half of your time circling back on an old road that’s also too far away to see any of the rock art.
The second way this group is a bit unusual is that there are a ton of flute player figures, and also a lot of duck figures. The flute player, known to many in the American southwest by the Hopi name Kokopelli, is the hunchbacked creature who, well, is always playing a flute. Nobody knows for sure why this figure was so popular. He’s seen in rock art ranging over hundreds of miles that was created over several hundreds of years. Was it meant to represent a single person? Or a caste or class or group of people – traders from the south carrying a bag of trade goods over their shoulder? Some say he’s actually an anthropomorphic insect. All I know is there are lot of carvings of him on this particular cliffside.
Anyhow, after scrambling over lava boulders to see the main group of petroglyphs here, I headed back to the car and onward to my AirBnB.
Supper was pizza. The pizza was good – shrimp and green chiles – and the service was terrible. But later I did enjoy the “pueblo cookie” from the Indian Pueblo Kitchen for dessert.
At last, I did some more serious hiking today, and got my fill of rock art.
Once I got up, I got my things together, and headed out of the hotel to the car, stopping in the lobby just long enough to get a grab-and-go breakfast of a travel mug of coffee, a banana, and a microwave breakfast sandwich (spicy sausage). I ate those on the way to the trailhead for my first hike of the day.
On the west side of Albuquerque, a few miles past the Rio Grande, there’s a long escarpment that runs generally north-south. What’s an escarpment? According to Wiktionary, it’s a “steep descent or declivity; steep face or edge of a ridge; ground about a fortified place, cut away nearly vertically to prevent hostile approach.” In other words, it’s a fancy name for a long cliff. This one in particular was formed when a volcano a few miles to the west poured lava that reached a certain point and then just stopped. So there’s this long cliff of black lava rock, and Native Americans over hundreds or thousands of years used these black boulders as a canvas for their petroglyphs.
This area is protected now as Petroglyph National Monument. The weird thing is that the city, as it’s sprawled to the west, has built subdivisions right up to the cliffs and then on top of the cliffs. So there’s just this narrow meandering strip of land that is part of the Monument.
There are three canyons with trails that make up the Monument, and I ended up hiking in two of the three. My first hike of the day was Piedras Marcadas Canyon. The trail is only about 1.5 miles round trip and is pretty easy.
After finishing that hike, I drove to the trailhead for the next hike I wanted to take, at Boca Negra. The marked trails here are all very short, but the AllTrails database has one longer loop hike that encompasses all the shorter hikes plus a hike to an area that was accessible about 50 years ago but is no longer, plus a section on top of the rim. AllTrails calls this the Cliff Base trail. All told it’s about 2 miles, but with some elevation gain up and down the escarpment so it feels longer, especially in the heat of the day.
My plan was for the last part of my visit to the Petroglyph National Monument to be a visit to the visitor center, where I would eat lunch. The Cliff Base hike left me pretty dirty and sweaty, but I cooled off by the time I reached the visitor center, which is at yet another location, not adjacent to any of the trailheads. There, I found a book I wanted to buy, but learned there were no picnic tables. The nearest picnic tables, according to the volunteer who was there, was at the third of the three trailheads, at Rinconada Canyon, just a mile away.
So I drove there. I was deflated to find that some genius put the two picnic tables right out in direct sun, but I found a separate shady area for lunch. Because I really, really prefer to have lunch in the shade. I ate a ham and cheese sandwich I’d been carrying around all day from my Whole Foods run the day before.
I was tempted to go take the third and final hike, but then I remembered I had another thing on the agenda for the day, and that was to visit the Maxwell Museum of Anthropology on the campus of the University of New Mexico. And the museum closes at 4:00pm, so I skipped the third possible hike and drove across town to campus.
Part 2, Museum
It’s just my luck that after paying $6 for on-campus parking, the very first thing the freshman staffing the front desk at the museum asked was, “Would you like a parking pass?” I didn’t realize that they gave our parking passes if you’re visiting the museum! I wish I’d known. I’d much rather give that six bucks to the museum than to whatever company runs the parking meters. Oh well. Speaking of money, admission is free.
I’ve read about this museum numerous times over the past 20 years or so. It’s a famous museum for southwestern archaeology. In addition to having lots of representative artifacts from pueblo and ancestral puebloan sites, they routinely have very good traveling exhibits.
I wandered around, I read stuff, I looked at all the exhibits. I even checked out an art exhibit that I really liked – photos from a Diné artist. But the museum wasn’t as big as I was expecting it to be, so my trip lasted only about an hour or so.
By then I was tired out, and headed back to my hotel for a delightful hot shower and lots of drinks and some photo editing.
New Mexican food of the day was supper at Laguna Burger: green chile cheeseburger (the Laguna Wimp), with a side salad and avocado ranch dressing, plus a $5 pineapple margarita. Five bucks!
It always takes me a few days to get into vacation mode, where I can really just be lazy and relax and enjoy myself. At first, I always feel like I should be doing something at all times, and today I’m still feeling like that. But I did get to do some more vacation-like stuff today.
I got up and packed up my things in the motel in Las Vegas, and had a tiny sack breakfast, then hit the road. First stop was the Pecos National Historic Park. I got briefed by the volunteer outside the visitor center, and got a map of the main trail around the ruins. And then I went inside and browsed through the gift shop, watched a short film about what I was about to see, and then walked through the museum.
The main trail here goes around and through Pecos Pueblo and the adjacent Catholic church that the Spaniards built right next door. In fact, they built four Catholic churches there over the course of a couple hundred years. The first was a tiny experimental affair, and then the second was a huge cathedral with buttresses and everything. But then the locals destroyed it in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. But of course the Spanish came back and built a temporary church, and then a bigger one on top of the ruins of the previous big one. But Pecos was on the decline by the time the new church was finished, and the remaining inhabitants of the pueblo moved in with their relatives in another pueblo about 80 miles away.
I drove into the modern village of Pecos, but didn’t see anything that caught my interest, so I drove on to Santa Fe for lunch. In keeping with my theme of trying to eat New Mexican style food everywhere I can, I got an open faced hamburger smothered in red chile. Of course you can order it with green or Christmas, instead.
Then I drove to Albuquerque and checked into a new hotel near Old Town, which would be my home for the next two nights.
After a shopping trip to Whole Foods to stock up on food and booze (they sell beer, wine, liquor, and pre-made cocktails there), I had a nap and a shower and then walked to a restaurant for supper that specializes in using local ingredients, called 66 Acres. I had a cocktail called The Manhattan Project (a Manhattan made with bourbon from Taos) and for a main course I had New Mexico Shrimp & Grits, which has green chile in the grits and red chile on the shrimp.
It’s Wednesday, and I’m on vacation. A much-needed vacation. A long-overdue vacation. In fact, I’ve been planning this vacation for two years. You see, the Summer 2019 issue of American Archaeology magazine had an article called “Touring Ancient Art Museums” about rock art sites in New Mexico and Arizona. I had been to one or two of them in the past, but most were new to me.
So I got the idea to have a road trip to northern New Mexico that would tie together hikes to several of these rock art sites, plus hitting up some related museums. The plans really came together in early 2020, and the goal was for a 7 to 10 day trip in May 2020. I did a lot of research and put together an itinerary. I reserved an AirBnB and reserved two spots on a tour of one of the rock art sites that’s on private property. And then the COVID-19 pandemic hit, and I had to cancel all those plans.
At one time I hoped to be able to do the trip in the fall of 2020, but travel restrictions were still a thing. Then I hoped to do it in the spring of 2021, but the pandemic was still at its worst and my father passed, leaving me not much in the mood for frolic and cavortment.
Finally, things came together in the fall of 2021. I dusted off all the previous plans, put together a new itinerary to fit into 8 days of travel, and started to make reservations. Unlike the original plans, Brooke couldn’t join me because she needed to go to New York to help her aunt deal with selling her house. So I ended up on a solo road trip. And that’s how I came to be writing this journal entry from a worn and cheaply-made chair in the Super 8 motel in Las Vegas, New Mexico.
Today was the first day of my trip, and probably the least exciting. All I really accomplished today was driving. I finished packing and squaring things away at my condo in Denver, and headed out on Interstate 25 southbound. Hours later, I arrived at tonight’s lodging. I got breakfast at a drive-through, and lunch at another drive-through farther south. But I got to have supper at a hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurant here in Las Vegas.
That’s when it really sunk in that I’m in New Mexico now. I ordered the “stuffy” with “roast beef”. That’s New Mexico lingo for what in Denver we’d call a stuffed sopaipilla with carne deshebrada. The waitress asked “red, green, or Christmas?” as one does here (I chose green). And instead of beans or rice as a side dish, I had posole. Plus, a free sopaipilla for dessert. The whole huge meal with tax and tip came to just over $13. The price is one nice thing about eating in small towns.
I tried to go for a little hike to get some exercise after arriving in town, but the only decent trail that AllTrails recommended in the area turned out to be in a state park. When I drove there I saw they wanted me to pay a $5 day use fee just to walk less than 2 miles on a trail to a reservoir that’s mostly dried up at the moment. It didn’t seem worth it, so I skipped it. There will be hiking tomorrow.
After they cancelled my flight, they automatically booked me on one leaving Tuesday morning. Tuesday? There’s no way American can get me to Denver any sooner? Well, a couple phone calls later, I’m going to get back to Colorado today after all! Barely. Hopefully.
Brooke and I drove to Durango for a long Memorial Day Weekend. We left Thursday afternoon and got back to Denver Monday evening. We had a lot of fun on the way and on the way back, but had an especially big day on Saturday May 25, 2019. That was the day we visited Sand Canyon, which I’m about to tell you about.
Sand Canyon is a canyon in the far southwest corner of Colorado, located in the Canyon of the Ancients National Monument. It’s a tributary of McElmo Creek, which is a famous drainage containing hundreds of ruins where ancestral puebloans once lived, around 800 years ago. I’d never been there before, but Brooke’s father Whitey had hiked the canyon about 20 years ago and recommended it. So we made a day trip from Durango.
The area where we hiked is just to the north of the small mountain range that make up what people generally call Sleeping Ute Mountain. In the photo above, the highest peak is Ute Peak (also sometimes called Ute Mountain, and also sometimes called Sleeping Ute Mountain). That makes up the shoulders of the sleeping Ute
There is a trail that goes from one end of Sand Canyon to the other, and both an upper and a lower trailhead. The whole thing is about 6 miles each way, but I knew I didn’t have a 12 mile (round trip) hike in me, especially one with a big elevation gain at the end. So we parked at the lower trailhead, hiked about 2.5 miles in, had lunch, hiked back out, and then drove to the upper trailhead.
The lower trailhead is by far the most popular, and they’ve recently had to add a second parking area down the road some, but we got there early enough to get a parking space in the original parking area. The hike follows a bench along the rim of Sand Canyon where there are a number of ruins.
The first ruins we saw was the high wall above. At the time, I just thought it was out there all by itself, but I later learned there’s much more to the story. This was just part of a small village that was abandoned all at once after its people were massacred.
After those ruins, it’s another mile or so before the next one, then there are several more tucked into alcoves on a bench that the trail follows.
That night, I did some reading online about where we’d just been, and I learned that there was once a pueblo where a few dozen people lived very near the lower trailhead. They call it Castle Rock Pueblo. It had even been excavated by the Crow Canyon Research Institute back in the 80s and 90s. We were right there and didn’t realize we were in the middle of a little village. Some photos from the 1890s still exist of the ruins, and you can see that in the 100 years between when the photos were taken and when the research started, most of the building blocks had disappeared. The researchers say they were used as easy building material by the early white farmers who settled in McElmo creek to build houses and other buildings from, and many of those buildings still exist today.
On the whole day hike, I didn’t hear a single canyon wren. That was weird, I thought. Where are they?
That afternoon, on the way to and from the Sand Canyon Pueblo site at the upper part of the canyon, we did some geocaching. It was Whitey’s first time.